A leisurely start to the day with Skipper Jason’s bacon and eggs setting us up for the first full day of sailing. A flutter of excitement and nervous anticipation coursed through the crew regardless of the experience levels. None of us have worked on a boat of this size or type before. Personally I hadn’t really had any experience beyond a small two person Wayfarer (coincidentally also the name of my go to beer). Before we head off in earnest our onboard yogi Toni helped First Mate Liv work out some neck and shoulder kinks with a short session of deck yoga.

Morning light at Yalobi Bay, our first anchorage (feat. Silver Fern)

With the engine running we gently edge around and make our first attempt at raising the sails with the cliffs of the bay watching us slightly judgmentally, almost frowning. But we ground on (sailing pun fully intended) as Liv showed us the ropes, even though they are called lines. There are no ropes on a boat! Halyard, mizzen, furling, topping, the new language just kept coming. The crew, still gelling over our first real challenge, following the First Mate around like puppies chasing a food bowl.

Out of the bay and picking up speed with the main, mizzen and head sails fully up, the Te Kaihopara skipped lightly across the waves towards our next mooring with the anticipation of a possible visit to a resort for a sunset cocktail to reward our callused hands and salt crusted faces. Like every good story though there is a twist. Four hours in the motor started making odd noises, unhappy noises. The helm was handed over to aspiring Skipper Mike, an experienced sailor in his own right albeit on a smaller vessel. While Jason and Liv examined the engine room and ultimately replaced the cooling belt, Mike executed a perfect, if unplanned, penalty turn. The delay meant that we missed the window for onshore cocktail hour so we will save that for another day.

Fortunately we were treated to a perfect cloudless sunset at beer o’clock ahead of a generous dinner of lamb chops masterfully wrangled by Pete on the barbecue, roast potatoes and salad from Sarah and Toni, all topped off with feta a la Georgia. The post dinner clean up hit the rocks as the sink filter became blocked and for a while, Jimmy, Mike and Sue walked bowls full of grey water from the galley to the boat side under a small barrage of light hearted banter, “Put your back into it!”, “Anyone know a plumber?”, “Can you put the kettle on while you’re at it?” With bums in the air and sore knees and elbows, the day was saved.

The following morning started with a shock as bunkmate Jimmy accidentally put his foot into his fan, coming dangerously close to getting a new nickname “Jimmy Six Toes”. Breakfast was rapidly put away before our taxi driver Joe arrived to ferry us to the Blue Lagoon. Apparently it was Joe’s birthday (I suspect it is Joe’s birthday every day). We were first to the beach, first into the lagoon, and first into the second cave. Sue bravely conquered her fears to manage the short, but very nerve wracking, dive through the rocky passage. “Swim towards the light!” said Joe. Not especially reassuring. We got back to the beach before hoards of tourist boats descended and the crowds took the shine off.

Back on the boat, we set sail with the crew suddenly working in perfect harmony. Megan taking charge and directing proceedings like a pro. We needed only three quarter sails as there was a fine wind and eventually reached over nine knots with the engine off. The crew were incredible, grinding and sweating better than a Berlin nightclub. Pete and Sarah took turns at the helm keeping us true and on course.

Mid afternoon we reached our destination for the evening, Champagne Beach. And what a spot. A handful of us went ashore to sit under the coconut trees, swim on the reef, and explore the abandoned resort that had a funny Jurassic Park 3 vibe about it. After the beach, the crew, Te Kaihōpara, and the fish, the next most beautiful thing in our sight line was the 53 meter (not feet) Nirvana Formentera with its sleek black lines and crisply attired crew, its billionaire owner just bobbing along in his tender at the sea edge with a glass or two of wine. Apparently he started the Mango clothing line in case you were wondering. He did offer us a ride back to our boat, but we didn’t want to get sand on his shiny toy.

Sue held off on the beach visit to pull together a veggie chili fit for a billionaire but we kept it all to ourselves. He doesn’t know what he was missing. The night closed off with music, laughter, a little too much booze on my part, and a great deal of excitement for the rest of the trip. We shared highs and lows, sang songs, and watched the stars. What absolute paradise.

Ni sa moce! -Daf

“Can You Put A Kettle On While You’re At It?”

PoPo & Lovo

Bye Bob