The race was on to get to the entry to St George Basin in Brunswick Bay in time for the change of tide. With very little wind, we motor sailed for 2.5 days as we headed to Brunswick Bay. It turns out there is little wind at this time of year in the Kimberley.

The dry season seems to be coming to an end with the humidity starting as we prepared to leave Darwin. We have had clear skies day and night, lots of stars and the moonless nights as we made our way here. Other than Salt Lines we have seen very few other vessels.

At first light with clouded skies and a short lived cooler breeze, we headed excitedly into the channel. This was to be our first stop since leaving Darwin. 

Our speed over ground (SOG) as we entered this incredible location was 12 knots. It took us 90 minutes to cover the 15nm to the basin entry. With the water swirling around us, the eddies and whirlpools were crazy. With the name of one point “Strong Tide Point” reflecting what we were experiencing, careful helming and navigation was required .

As the sun rose through soft clouds, we saw the land around us was rugged, with one island of the many we saw reminding the Sydney based sailors of Lion Island in Pittwater. Hills were covered in scrubby bush. The cliffs and rock faces were striking. 

Comments were made that the area “looked like the Blue Mountains (NSW) by the sea” with light reflecting from the cliff faces and another that it was “Arizona by the sea” where there were huge mesa (flat topped mountains). 

Once we found a safe anchorage, Sliver Fern and Salt Lines rafted up to each other and then the exploration began. Both RIBs went out with crew to explore the river and after sighting no crocodiles, the water fights began, with everyone enjoying the cool water.  One tragic loss was an iPhone slipping out of a pocket and into the water, sinking to the murky depths in its waterproof case. Diving in to rescue the phone was not an option, due to the ever present risk of crocodiles.  

A quiet afternoon was spent sheltering from the sun, with the crews spending time socialising on both yachts. 

On Friday morning a curious crocodile was spotted swimming alongside the Salt Lines RIB, that was tied to the stern of the boat. Finally we had seen a crocodile up close and lots of photos were taken. 

Again the tide dictated our travel time, so 24 hours after we arrived, e pulled up our anchor in time to catch the outgoing tide for a rocket ride back out of this amazing, remote place.  

David (co-written by Jo Copeland)