Through Hell’s Gate and Back Again
As we’re making our way back towards Hells Gate, to depart Macquarie Harbor and head South for Port Davey, I’m struggling to remember everything we managed to pack into our two days here in the harbor. It’s been nonstop here on Silver Fern, packed with bush walks, a few brave swims, penitentiaries, wildlife, and even a few sundowners.
We arrived at the entrance to Macquarie Harbor on Monday afternoon, and despite having timed the pilotage through Hells Gate with the slack tide, we discovered that such thing does not truly exist here, as there is constantly current rushing out of the harbor, and slack tide simply means the current is at its slowest.
Entering Macquarie Harbor
Once safely through Hells Gate, we were rewarded with enough wind to shake the reefs in the mainsail, unfurl the jib and had a beautiful sail to our anchorage on the Southeastern side of the harbor. We anchored in Kelly Basin for the night, enjoying a peaceful night's rest in protected water.
Full sails down to Kelly Basin
Tuesday morning started bright and early with a walk in the forest through what is left of an old mining town that used to be based in the bay. We returned to Silver Fern for lunch, weighed anchor and set off for Gordon River. We snaked our way about 7 miles down the river, where we anchored and went on another walk to see the ancient forest that surrounds the river.
The crew happy to be on land!
Chris on bow watch as we navigate up the Gordon River
That evening, we anchored in Hawks Nest Cove, just south of the entrance to the river. John convinced Denise, Bel and Chris to join him on yet another walk, this one in search of the sandy beach just on the other side of the headland protecting our anchorage. About two hours later, John appeared back at the boat alone (highly suspicious), to grab Susan, Tracey and myself in the dinghy to join the rest of the crew for a bonfire. We packed up a few sundowners and made our way over to the beach, where the shore team was waiting with tales of a near traumatic experience following John down wombat holes and through tea tree bushes.
Just an easy walk through the bush…
We enjoyed our bonfire as the sun went down, and were even greeted by a few dolphins in the bay. Chris and Tracey had a little game of beach cricket, which was fairly short lived as Bel’s ankles were almost taken out amidst the action. We all piled into the dinghy and headed home, to enjoy a delicious pesto pasta dinner and head to bed.
What pairs perfectly with a bonfire? Beach cricket.
Wednesday morning we departed Hawks Nest Cove and made our way up to Sarah Island, famous for being one of the most severe penal settlements in Australia. We spent an hour or so wandering the island and reading about the history of the settlement. A worthwhile stop if in Macquarie harbor, despite the dark history of the island.
That afternoon, we had a lovely sail across the harbor up to Strahan, where we anchored and dropped the crew off onshore to have a wander around the town. We all reconvened for dinner at a lovely restaurant on the east side of our anchorage, enjoying freshly caught fish, oysters and scallops. There may have even been a pool game or two at the local pub before heading back to Silver Fern for the night.
Nothing better than fresh Tassie oysters!
Mandatory stop at the pool table
This morning we set off early to make our departure out of Macquarie harbor, planning to be at Hells Gate once again by 9 am. Once safely out, we will set our sights on our next adventure, Bathurst harbor!
Cheers,
Liv
A walk through the forest
Silver Fern in the Gordon River