Ahoy there, salty sea dogs and landlubbers alike! It’s your friendly neighborhood chief mate Jess, back with another thrilling episode of "How Many Forms Can One Person Fill Out?" and other nautical adventures. Today’s plan was a straightforward 5NM hop over to Pangai to once again tango with the inter-island customs forms.

While the crew embarked on their grand bureaucratic quest, I stayed back on the boat to tackle the black water pump problem. Trust me, you don’t want the gory details. Let’s just say it involved a lot of grimacing, some choice words, and the kind of smell that haunts your dreams. But hey, it’s all part of the glamorous life of a sailor, right?

With Pangai offering all the excitement of watching paint dry, my crew returned to the boat before midday, customs forms triumphantly completed. Good thing too, as we had a 35NM sail ahead of us to Nomuka and wanted to avoid playing the game of "Docking in the Dark."

The weather gods decided to be kind, gracing us with a lovely NE breeze instead of the forecasted SE. It made for a glorious day of sailing. The sails filled beautifully, the boat glided smoothly over the waves, and the sun shone down, making everything seem right with the world.

As if that wasn’t enough, our resident fisherman Darren (yes, he’s earned that title now) landed a Mahi Mahi just as we spotted Nomuka on the horizon. The commotion on deck was something to behold. Darren showcased his angling prowess while John executed a perfect gaffing maneuver, all without dropping our precious dinner overboard. As for me, I strategically faded into the background until the blood and gore were dealt with. The fish went from ocean to fridge in about 30 minutes, and the crew’s culinary imaginations ran wild with tomorrow’s dinner possibilities.

We timed our arrival perfectly into our anchorage, which initially looked as inviting as a haunted house. However, once tucked inside the reef, we were thankfully greeted by serene, flat water. Cue collective sighs of relief.

The next morning, the crew, who were up early for once (unlike yours truly), organised a trip ashore to donate supplies to the local village. Nomuka holds a special place in history due to its connection to the Mutiny on the Bounty. Back in 1789, Captain William Bligh and his loyalists were set adrift after the infamous mutiny. They made their way to Nomuka, hoping for supplies, but instead found themselves facing hostility. They narrowly escaped, beginning a perilous 3,600-mile journey to Timor.

While the crew spread goodwill ashore, I enjoyed some peace and quiet aboard, pretending to do some important work. Pro tip: If you look busy enough, no one questions it. There’s a certain art to this kind of subterfuge, perfected only through years of diligent practice.

Traditional weaving in the village of Nomuka Island

Salt Lines in the distance from Nomuka Island

The crew returned, brimming with stories and just in time to witness a magnificent humpback whale swim right up to the boat. What a spectacle! The whale hung around for a good couple of hours, allowing us to actually put our cameras down and soak in the moment. It was a humbling experience, reminding us of the wonders of the natural world.

Post-whale goodbye, complete with a tail flip, we headed to a smaller island for some snorkelling and shell collecting. Jane, our resident shell expert, added to her impressive haul. She has a knack for finding the prettiest shells, much to the envy of the rest of us.

Dinner that evening was, thankfully, in Sally and Alicia’s hands. Oven-baked Mahi Mahi from Darren’s catch—you can’t go wrong. The boys breathed a sigh of relief, knowing their culinary contributions wouldn’t involve crunchy carbs this time. The fish was cooked to perfection, flaky and delicious.

Our trip has flown by, and tomorrow marks our last day of cruising as we head back to Nuku'alofa. We’ve decided to let Darren play skipper for the day, building up his miles and giving me a break from decision-making. His plan is to depart at 6:30am to ensure we reach Nuku'alofa before 4pm. Early start, but no worries—the crew loves their sleep (they’re on holiday after all). Naturally, they all tucked themselves into bed before 8:30pm.

As I sat on deck, reflecting on the journey, I couldn’t help but feel a twinge of sadness that our adventure was coming to an end. We’ve had our share of challenges, from pesky pumps to unpredictable weather, but it’s all part of the experience. The camaraderie, the breathtaking views, the thrill of the open sea—it’s what keeps us coming back for more.

The last little blat in the green machine before putting it away

All in all, it’s been a fantastic trip. I’m looking forward to our sail tomorrow with a forecasted NE breeze. We’ll send it on down to our final destination and wrap up another memorable adventure. Here’s to fair winds and following seas, and to the many more journeys that await.

Till next time, Jess :)

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