We set sail from Foa in the Ha’apai group mid-afternoon, with the sun shining and spirits high. The winds were blowing a steady 15-20 knots from the Southeast, giving us beam seas that had the boat rocking and rolling. We could barely peel Jeremy and Martyn off the helm, and most all the crew stayed up the whole night enjoying my excellent DJing and the front row seat to the Milky Way.

We managed to time our visit to Vava’u perfectly with both the Oyster Rally and the Pacific Rally, meaning that just about every anchorage was packed with cruisers when we arrived around one in the morning. What followed this discovery was two hours of motoring around in the dark, trying to find a safe spot to drop anchor. Kāren and Michelle, our late-night heroes, kept us fuelled with tea, cookies and most importantly, kind words of encouragement.

Finally, after what felt like an eternity, we found a cozy nook off Utungake Island to drop anchor. With the anchor set and the boat secure, we all collapsed into our bunks for a few precious hours of sleep. Morning came with the glorious sight of the sun rising over the water, and we headed to Neiafu for our domestic clearance with customs.

Jeremy and Martyn getting the sails flaked after the long night sail

While Matt and I were busy navigating the bureaucratic waters of customs, some of the crew bumped into a familiar face. Millie, who had sailed with Salt Lines from Panama to Tahiti as part of the Exxpedition crew, was anchored nearby with her partner David on their Oyster 406. They joined us for dinner that night, sharing stories of Salt Lines' adventures in her past lives. It’s always a treat to run into old friends and hear tales of the boat's storied history.

The next day, we headed back into town to stock up on provisions and deliver some much-needed donations. Liz, Ken, and Jeremy had brought along a treasure trove of kids’ books, school supplies, and medical essentials. With the help of Greg from Café Tropicana, we connected with the local librarian, who was thrilled to receive the books for their literacy program. The medical supplies were gratefully accepted by the local doctor, who assured us they’d be put to good use.

With our land duties done for the day, we (minus Matt, who nobly babysat the boat) piled into the dinghy and set off to explore Swallows Cave, which did not disappoint. The water was crystal clear and filled with schools of fish that reflected rainbows in the afternoon sunlight. We snorkelled, marvelled, and managed to only lose one mask to the depths of the cave.

Back aboard Salt Lines, the crew has settled into a delightful routine. Early mornings see us up with the sunrise, sipping tea and coffee together before tackling our chores. Afternoons are for swimming, exploring, or simply lounging around. The watches take turns making crew dinners, which, just to drive Matt crazy, never stick to the meal plan we’ve provisioned for but are always delicious.

Evenings are a mix of music on deck, card games in the saloon, and early nights for those in need of extra sleep. And then, we wake up and do it all over again the next day.

The stars at our anchorage here in Port Maurelle

Thanks for following along, Cheers! -Liv

Join the crew for a sailing adventure

The Midnight Shuffle: Foa to Vava’u

Baywatch Ha’apai

A Tropical Winter Solstice