My entry to Vanuatu (via air) was a resplendent change from Fiji, as the cool weather was a welcome change from erstwhile muggy days in tropical heat. It was also my first time visiting a country, where they drive on the wrong side of the road (right for them I guess). However, I had no time to explore this unique and beautiful country, as all my attention and energy were reserved for the equally unique and beautiful British Ketch, Salt Lines. The outgoing Skipper and Chief Mate duo of JohnBoi and Liv were ready with their ever-important handing-over notes as the yacht had recently returned from its ‘Discovery of Tonga’ adventure. I must admit, it felt a bit odd to be onboard without Jess around, but I’m sure she’s having an equally great time in Europe at the moment.

As Salt Lines was preparing for yet another Ocean passage, we were joined onboard by, in order of appearance, Trevor, a Salt Lines veteran who had built his own catamaran despite societal pressures not to, Jason, our Skipper for this fantastic adventure, Adam, an actual real-life Mattress King with otherworldly fishing abilities. Joining them, were the kiwi-marine biologist power couple of Alistair and Jenna, who’s love story had begun due to the power of the now-nostalgic, MSN messenger. Making a combined taxi-trip from Vanuatu’s tiny international airport, were Salt Lines super-specialist Darren, who has racked up almost 8000 nm in the last few months on this very boat and self-professed cat lady/ undercover cop, Elissa (she has six cats and loves to play cat-politics amongst them). Making a fashionably late entry, were Travis and Antonia, the former being a fishing enthusiast with a penchant for halyard sweating and the latter a Vanuatu semi-local, who just wanted Travis to control his halyard sweating obsessive behaviour.

Our departure from Vanuatu was a bit hilarious as the presence of a low lying power cable meant that instead of making a quick turn to port for refuelling, we had to take a long detour around the starboard side of the marina and had to motor around the beautiful Iririki Island, to reach our fuel berth. Reefs and low depth areas were expertly dodged as the crew finally refuelled and set forth for their ocean passage to Australia. As per standard protocol, our Man-overboard exercise went off as smoothly as butter off a hot knife, with Alistair even managing to get himself a quick dip into the ocean whilst playing the role of our designated rescue swimmer.

Just as most adventures must begin with an uphill task, our heroic crew were faced with a multitude of battles. Some were visited by the familiar foes of sea-sickness, whilst I faced my own inner bogeyman, an unwilling generator. The sea state and gusting winds created perfect conditions to get the second reef in and deploy the stay sail whilst our respective demons waited below deck, patiently. Deciphering generator error codes and diving deep into the engine room’s cavernous corners took up most of the next few hours, as Jason and I made sure that the generator would begin to behave itself as quickly as possible. Elsewhere, Adam had quietly racked up two tuna catches! The true sign of a master, is to excel in complete silence. This was Adam’s forte. Elissa explained the various reason why her favourite cat was simply the best cat there ever had been and Antonia recovered from her sea-sickness to show me some sick-moon-walking dance moves. Travis impressed me with his fish filleting, as I noticed his highly reflective, polarised sunglasses, meant that the last thing the poor fish saw, was its own reflection of being introduced to his hunting knife. Nature can be rather cruel at times and so can Salt Line’s engine room, as I spent a few hours on my knees getting the pesky impeller replaced. It was tad more complicated than the one on Silver Fern, therby leaving me with a greater sense of gratitude on completion. 

The next day bore fruit for Salt Lines and its now salty crew, as the wind gusts settled down from the previous night’s 33 knots to much calmer figures. Reefs were shaken out and fruit juice glasses toasted, as the trip finally seemed to commenced, with everyone feeling good to be at sea with sunshine and salty air. Trevor was happy to discover that lunch was followed by some surprise chocolate bar-dessert and Darren was glad the generator was now working, as it meant that I didn’t keep huffing and puffing my way into his cabin (the bosun’s cabin adjoins the engine room). Just as I thought things couldn’t better, the crew introduced me to the joys of Quinoa salad.

As the night watches settle into their familiar spots of star-gazing and helmsmanship, Salt Lines trudges along with fair winds and following seas, as the adventure has only just begun.

- Arjun Thimmaya, Chief Mate, Salt Lines