Wednesday was spent enjoying the anchorage in Port Havannah. This protected bay, located between the northwest coast of Efate and the small island of Moso, is a perfect spot for both relaxation and exploration. The area has a mix of reefs, local villages, mangroves, sandy beaches, and a few upscale resorts.

The crew took turns climbing the rig to enjoy the views of the anchorage and the surrounding reefs from above. We spent the afternoon going on dinghy missions around the bay, exploring and looking for possible snorkeling spots. We found shipwrecks, sea snakes, and (always the favorite) excellent reef for diving.

In the evening, we took the dinghy to shore, hoping to visit the local village, and stop by the World War II memorial museum I’d read about online. The museum, which showcases relics from the American troops stationed in Vanuatu during the war, remained elusive as we only made it as far as the fancy beach resort that let us park our dinghy on their pontoon. We all thought the sound of cold drinks while relaxing at their beachside restaurant sounded far superior to taking a walk. The luxury of modern amenities like freshwater we didn’t have to desalinate ourselves, and toilets you can flush the loo roll down was a nice change of pace.

Just as we were about to load up in the dinghy and head back to the boat, Fireworks by Katy Perry started playing, and a fire dancing show broke out on the lawn in front of the beach. The local fire dancing group put on an impressive show, and by the end, they had the whole audience, including our crew, up and dancing along.

Though the resort visit made for a fun evening, we found ourselves appreciating the more authentic experiences we’ve had sailing around the Vanuatu islands, that would have been lost on all of us had we been staying somewhere onshore. The money it costs to stay a few nights in a resort could go so far in the surrounding islands spent on books, soccer balls and games, and the experience of meeting the local communities makes for a far more meaningful time traveling.

We made our way down from Port Havannah back to Port Vila yesterday morning, despite Bec’s best efforts at the helm to turn us around and stay another night. We arrived back at the marina by early afternoon and had a quick boat clean before getting ready for the big crew departure dinner. Dinner was full of laughs as we all shared our highs and lows from the week. We reflected on the impressive sail the first night the crew got onboard, and how welcoming all the villages were every time we went to shore.

As usual with the final day of a trip, I’m having a bittersweet morning saying my farewells to everyone. Spending a couple weeks sailing with a group of strangers on a boat as salty as Salt Lines has a way of creating amazing friendships, which is the best part of the job by far!

Nat, Steve & Kelly-Anne on a dinghy mission!

Cheers! -Liv

Havannah Nights

The Final Frontier

Operation Cook Reef